Journal
The Sifnos Journal
Our address book — beaches, coves, tavernas, ceramicists, written from years on the island.
Sifnos travel guide: a complete companion for first-time visitors
How to reach Sifnos, when to come, what to eat, where to swim, and which villages to walk first. Written from years on the island.
The best addresses in Sifnos: beaches, restaurants, hotels, villages
The complete address book for a week in Sifnos. Beaches, coves, tavernas, evening tables, villages to walk, hotels, ceramicists, sunset spots. One page to map it all — and six dedicated guides for the deeper read.
A history of Sifnos: from the Delphi Treasury to the modern Cyclades
Six millennia on fifty square miles. From the gold mines that paid for a treasury at Delphi to the Venetian lords of Kastro, from Ottoman quietude to Greek independence — the story of a small island that often mattered more than its size.
Nikolaos Tselementes: the Sifnian who reinvented Greek cookery
Born in 1878 in a small hamlet of Sifnos, Nikolaos Tselementes wrote in 1932 the book that codified modern Greek cookery. His name is now, in the Greek language, the word for *cookbook*. The story of a man who put béchamel into moussaka.
Easter in Sifnos: the deepest celebration in the Cyclades
Sifnos celebrates Easter with an intensity few Greek islands match. Whitewashed walls, mastelo in clay, the Epitaphios procession through Kastro, fireworks at midnight. A guide to the most extraordinary week of the Sifnian year.
The beaches of Sifnos: a bay-by-bay guide
Eight beaches written by the year. From the postcard chapel of Chrysopigi to the wild north tip of Vroulidia — the bays we return to, what to do at each, and the taverna we trust at lunch.
The Sifnian calendar: panigyria, festivals and traditions
237 chapels, just as many reasons to celebrate. From the September Tselementes Festival to the summer panigyria, from solstice fires to the Easter procession — the complete calendar of an island that celebrates almost every week.
Three hidden coves of Sifnos
Poulati, Fikiada, the cove below Kastro. Three small bays you reach by foot or by boat — and the only true secret of an island that has very few left.
Where to eat in Sifnos: a guide to the island's tables
Sifnos quietly has the best food in the Cyclades. The home of Tselementes — the man whose name became the Greek word for cookbook — has a dozen tables we book before we land. The kitchen, the chef, the dish, the price.
Three villages of Sifnos: Kastro, Artemonas, Apollonia
Three villages, one slow afternoon. The medieval cliff capital, the village of captains' mansions, and the lively spine of Apollonia. Where to walk, where to drink, where to dine — and the order in which to take them.
Sifnos pottery: the clay, the cooks, the studios
Sifnos has thrown clay since antiquity. The Sifnian potter became almost a job title in Greek folk culture — and the chimney-pots crowning every Cycladic house are a Sifnian invention. A guide to the studios still working today.
Sunset spots in Sifnos: where to be at the golden hour
Five places to be when the light turns. From a chapel on a cliff to a bar with feet in the sand — and the small Greek ritual of the sundowner glass.